Cages

Although many people choose to house their rabbits outdoors, this practice is not considered to be appropriate husbandry.  Rabbits housed outdoors are subject to temperature extremes, parasites, and predators (both animal and human).  An outdoor rabbit's lifespan is often cut by three-quarters or more.

Though many people allow their rabbits to free-range in their homes when they are there to supervise, a cage or pen of some type is recommended for nighttime and when no one is at home.

ACR&S recommends at least an 8 square foot to 16 square foot cage per pair of rabbits (depending on size).  We highly recommend "cube and coroplast" cages (instructions on building can be found here, here and here).  The typical "pet store" cage is not nearly big enough for a bunny to live in, and we often use the bottoms of these cages as litterboxes!  The average rabbit is the size of a small housecat -- if you would feel uncomfortable confining a cat for several hours in a particular cage, it is too small for a rabbit.

There are some companies that specialize in making appropriately sized rabbit housing.  One of these is Leith Petwerks.  They make the "Bunny Abodes", which some rabbit owners prefer (especially if they have large dogs).

Additionally, many owners utilize "exercise pens" which are made for dogs as rabbit pens.  This solution may not be ideal for especially athletic bunnies (who may leap out the top).  They can be found in most pet supply stores, and more than one can be "linked" together to expand the space.

Wire bottomed cages are not recommended as they contribute to broken toes and bumblefoot.

Diet

A rabbit's diet is comprised of three components:  hay, pellets, and vegetables.

Hay should be available at all times, and for adult rabbits should be grass based (such as timothy or orchardgrass).  Many rabbits especially enjoy Oxbow or Kleenmama's hay.  Younger rabbits (under six months of age) may be supplemented with alfalfa.

Pellets should be a limited part of an adult rabbit's diet, although the percentage they comprise varies as they age.  For adult rabbits, pellets should be timothy based.  The House Rabbit Society's Diet FAQ explores portions based on age.  As with guinea pigs, pellets should be plain with no seeds, nuts, colored pieces, or fruit bits.

Vegetables should be fed daily, with an emphasis on dark, leafy greens.  In addition to nutrition, they offer an important enrichment to your bunnies.

Bedding

Since rabbits are able to be littertrained, rabbit "bedding" should be used only in litterboxes.

Acceptable litters:  Yesterday's News (or other pelleted paper products), wood pellets, Carefresh, hardwood shavings (aspen is the most common).

Unacceptable litters:  Cedar or pine shavings (contain dangerous phenols), corn cob bedding (exceptionally prone to mold and dangerous to ingest), clay or clumping cat litter (dangerous if ingested), newspaper (not especially absorbent), exclusively hay (not absorbent -- though many people do put hay in their boxes on top of the bedding -- this is fine)

Social Needs

Rabbits are a social species, and most are happier with a friend.   Before being bonded, rabbits (of both sexes) need to be spayed or neutered.  Intact bunnies can and will fight, even with alternate sex companions. 

Rabbits and Kids

Although the media image of a child cuddling a rabbit is a pervasive one, it is unfortunately an inaccuate one.  As a general rule, rabbits make pretty poor pets "for" children.  The vast majority of rabbits do not like to be picked up, and when they are they may kick, scratch, nip, growl, and box to get away.  In addition, if they are picked up improperly they can literally kick hard enough to break their own spines.

However, many homes that also have children do own rabbits and are very successful and happy with their pets.  The key for this success is that the parent take ownership of the situation and have realistic expectations of what the relationship between bunny and child will be.  The House Rabbit Society has an amazing guide dealing with children and rabbits.  "My kids got tired of him" is one of the top reasons that rabbits are abandoned, and so we strive to make sure that each family is aware and understanding of the needs of the rabbits they are taking in, as well as having realistic expectations for the children as well.

Vet Care

Although they seem much more common than some of the other, more exotic pets, rabbits are classed as an "exotic" animal.  As such, most veterinarians are not qualified to see them, and you'll have to seek out a rabbit specialist.  ACR&S has compiled a list of veterinary references which may be helpful in finding your pet's new vet.  Please be aware that not all vets that "see" rabbits actually have up to date knowledge or relevant experience with them.  An uninformed vet can very easily kill your rabbit through well-intentioned ignorance.